Sunday, December 9, 2012

I might never sleep again

This week was delightful.

This week was basically just a big built up to shabbat. But along the way some good things happened.

For one, work became really good. I've been given the tasks of compiling the evidence about church child pornography cases for the past 5 years. It's a huge amount of work. It's sad work but it's quite useful.

I'm also compiling the evidence on the Abu Ghraib torturers, their court martials, their convictions and sentences for another case, which is also great work.

Lastly and this is my favourite, I've been doing some interesting research into the constitutional right to freedom of religion and whether that gives churches immunity from litigation for negligently hiring or failing to supervise paedophile priests. You would think that they would be held accountable but there's a bunch of states (I'm look at you, Utah) that think that to hold churches accountable for that is to encroach on their right to free exercise of their religion. I think I might write up an academia article for this on behalf of the firm, which would be a nice experience. All in all, work has been getting interesting.

On Wednesday night I went to see "Sleep No More" which was an alternative theatre production gifted to me by my boyfriend's family (really just his sister...). It's a huge haunted house play, where you wanted around following various actors do spooky things, like die and come back to life. There was a grave yard in the house. It was amazing and scary. Highly recommended.

Shabbat dinner this week I had 7 friends over, including Erica who slept by me. It was really fun, a good mix of people, except for this one random guy who accosted me at shule and invited himself over. He was a strange character, but he certainly added flavour to the company and it reminded me of my Nachlaot shabbatot where you never know what will happen! Lunch was at a friend of mine's of the Rova. There were a bunch of other HaRova girls there. It was a really nice reunion, I was surprised at how cool and liberal they all were. Who knew?

Saturday night I went to a Channuka part in Brooklyn. It was great. Instead of wearing ugly Christmas jumpers people were wearing ugly channuka sweaters. It was heaps of fun. Though that did mean getting home at about 3.30am again....

Today I got up way too early considering how little i'd slept, but still too late to do anything productive with my morning. I did however run into my neighbour Tal Segal, who also happened to be my madrich in Bnei Akiva. Small world. I ran some errands (more on them later..) and then went out to dinner with my Aunt n Uncle on the upper west side. It was great fun and they are really lovely. After dinner I went to go visit an apartment which I think I will sublet. It's a gorgeous big 1 bedroom apt in Washington Heights.

Now on the the errands. I was quite busy today booking flights and organising visas n the like b/c MY BOYFRIEND IS COMING TO NY! Yay!

And that's all for this week.


Sunday, December 2, 2012

First full week in NY

Hello world,

Just so you gauge your expectations appropriately, expect about a post per week while I'm hitting up the city that never sleeps.

So last Monday I returned to work and continued reading fun things such as case law on the Alien Torts Statute and the Palmer inquiry etc. Monday night I went with my friend Erica and two of her friends to Drag Queen Bingo. Surprisingly, I won the first round of bingo, I won myself a small yappy toy puppy. We named her Bertrude.

This week, though was quite quiet socially. I tried generally just to get my life together. I joined the gym near work, I managed to stock my pantry and fridge and to do laundry. But generally, I wasn't really social at all.

At work I've been spending my time going through different sources of evidence and collating them into tables/documents/memos so they can be easily categorized for submission to the court. I've been going through emails that were received as a result of a Free of Information case. The emails are from the state department, they include emails from staffers for significant political and military figures. I've also been going through and extracting evidence from the Abu Ghraib court martial transcripts  It's been really hard/heavy work. At the end of the day I'm quite exhausted from reading about torture and abuses. But at the beginning of the day it's a good feeling to be going to work to do something important and bad-ass.

Shabbat and this weekend, however, was just delightful. My friend Naomi, whose family I stayed with for Thanksgiving came to stay with me. Friday night we went to a new partnership minyan (Shira Chadasha style) in the Heights. That's a big deal for such a conservative community. I was then at dinner with friends of mine from Midreshet Harova. The girl who hosted in now married and has a baby (queue freak out). After that I went to collect Naomi from her meal. There were heaps of people there including a really cool couple, where she was studying to become a Rabbi at JTS. Naomi and I popped our heads into the Mount Sinai Oneg Shabbat on our way home at 11.30 and it was still raging. But, that singles scene seriously intimidates me.

Shabbat morning we went to shule and hung around for shmoozing afterwards. I ran into a bunch of people I know from various travels and adventures. But basically, there were lot's of single religious Jews in their mid-20s. There was a buzz and a tension in the room that was pretty fierce. Lunch was delightful and delicious. There was a potluck lunch at Naomi's friend, Yael's fiance's place (if you can follow that). there were about 8 married couples and 4 unmarrieds there. It was seriously super intense. But there were some interesting people there and a couple of really good sheitels/rings/pregnancy clothes to discuss (err...).

Saturday night I went to Hummous Place on 73rd and Amsterdam with Naomi and her friend. Delicious. I then met up with from friends of mine from sem and we went to a midnight screening of the Rocky Horror Picture Show. It was great fun. They had a cast who dressed up and acted out the show, there were games and dancing. It was awesome. And getting home after 3am was less hard than expected!

Today I got up earlier than I would have liked and I went to visit family friends of ours in NJ. We went out for lunch and then frozen yogurt (I got salted caramel pretzel and cheesecake yogurt = amazing!). It was really nice catching up with them and meeting their kids for the first time! Seriously fat baby (and therefore cute). Tonight I went to a friend's regular movie night. We watched Psycho. It was actually scarier than I expected. But also funny in it's 1960's quaintness.

I'm not sure what to expect this week. I need to sort out my next sublet and confirm where I'm going to be living for the following 2 months. I would like to do more work on the Catholic sex abuse case, though these Iraqi torture cases are also very interesting.

But who knows what this week may bring!? 

Sunday, November 25, 2012

On Gratitude

Hello friends,

On Wednesday afternoon I left work early and make my way accross the George Washington Bridge to New Jersey where my friend Naomi (AKA Gnomie) was picking me up. We used to live together in Jerusalem, she recently finished her degree and is now working for a Bio-Ethics think-tank. We then drove to pick up her brother and sister-in-law along with their two adorable dogs (small dogs). We then drove 4ish hours to her parents home in Colombia, Maryland. Her dad is a Mathematician and as a mentioned earlier her mother is a Conservative Rabbi. The family are all super smart. And VEGETARIAN! Yay! We got home quite late and went more-or-less straight to bed. Thursday was Thanksgiving. We went to family friends of theirs who are also mathematicians/computer scientists. The meal was delicious. Vegetarian, so no turkey. We had stuffing, sweet potato crumble, brussle sprouts etc.. and a million different types of pie! It was generally delicious and wonderful. We also played a pre-meal game of croquet, which I was sadly very bad at.

Friday Gnomie and I got up extra early and went to Washington DC for the day. It's only about 40 minutes from her house. We met up with her a friend of hers and went to the Library of Congress (they had a Hebraica exhibit on) and to the Supreme court. We also popped by the Capitol and went for a walk on the very sunny day past all the museums and the giant oblix/phallic. We got home just in time for shabbat. The whole family came together for a delicious dinner and then we played a board game called Dominion. It was a cool game, a bit like Settlers of Catan.

Shabbat morning we walked to the local Conservative shule. It was really like your standard shule fare. Shmoozing and kids running around. Saturday night we went over to family friends of theirs who live in a house from the 1700s and we made Pizza. Then we went to see the new James Bond Movie "Skyfall." It was 2.5 hours but it felt much shorter than that. Having said that, I wouldn't recommend it. It's just another Bond movie.

Today we drove back to NY, I'm slowly getting my life in order. I went to the supermarket, I did laundry, I got myself a gym membership. There seems to be a bit of drama with the apartment that I'm due to move into in a few weeks but I'm sure it will all sort itself out. This week I should get some actual work to do, probably compiling evidence and redrafting submissions.

Lastly, a few reflections on Thanksgiving. Perhaps it's the Jew in me that likes a national festival that's basically just about coming together and eating ritual foods. It's also very nice to have national (not religious) traditions. Further, it's lovely to have the opportunity to sit back and reflect on how lucky you are and to feel gratitude for your fortuitous life. I think it's a pretty good holiday even if it comes from very complicated and maybe unethical origins.

That's all for now folks!

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

The City That Never Sleeps?


Hi all!

Yup, I’m off gallivanting around the world again. This time I’m spending 3 months interning at the Center for Constitutional Rights in New York via the Castan Centre of Monash University. I’m working in the gender and sexuality international human rights department. The big cases at the moment are against the Vatican for sexual abuse of children and one relating to discrimination of the LGBTI community in Uganda. I started work on Monday and so far not much has happened. I’ve been given a huge amount of cases, documents and academic articles to read so I’ll be briefed and ready to start working next week.

But since my arrival plenty of fun things have happened.

I arrived on Wednesday night and went to stay with my delightful friend Erica. We have a great chat that night, I met all of her housemates (they are awesome) and her apartment was equally impressive (well decorated).  Thursday was not particularly eventful. There were logistics to be sorted out, shopping to do and going to bed early so I could recovered from the jetlag.

Friday however was very special. I met up for cupcakes and cider at the Magnolia bakery (featured in SATC) with my friend Sarah. We met while we were both in a pluralist beit midrash (Havruta) in Jerusalem and she has since made aliya (yay!). She’s in town for such a short time so it was great to hear about her newly Israeli life and such. I then went to meet Erica at her office (the Gay Men’s Health Clinic – so cool!). We made our way to Crown Heights (the non-chabad side) in Brooklyn where we were spending Shabbat with our friend Dasi who has recently started studying at Yeshivat Maharat. We had a delightful dinner where the guests included a yiddishist, a YCT Rabbi and a singer/songwriter. Shabbat morning we went to a great minyan in a thrift store, really small and eclectic. Strangely I met another person that I knew from Jerusalem there, she is now studying at Hadar (more on that later..). Shabbat lunch was similarly delightful with a guest from Canada who had been living in Israel at the same time as me. Saturday night the singer/songwriter and my friend Dasi went to go busk at a subway station so Erica and I went along to support them. They sang really beautifully, great Bon Iver as well as Tegan & Sara covers. Conveniently I also ran into a few Mormon missionaries at the station and I had a brief chat with them, in which I asked them (what I think) were some great questions. They decided with check with the prophets’ writings and get back to me. After watching my friends sing Erica and I went to a fundraiser for victims of hurricane Sandy. It turned out to be a weird Mayan/Aztec event where the end of the world seemed to be pretty imminent. But all in all it was a great night.

Sunday was spent at the Global Day of Jewish learning atDrisha and Hadar. The speakers were generally average, except for the last one, a female rabbi/professor from JTS. During the lunch break however I met two great people, Naphtali and Yisroel whose day-jobs was to run a Yiddish farm in Up-State New York that facilitates Yiddish immersion programs. Sunday night was delightful. I had a pre-thanksgiving dinner with Erica and all of her Avodah colleagues as well as her friends Noam and Avital. Everybody was really friendly and interesting. I had my first taste of stuffing/applesauce and various other traditional foods.
As I already mentioned Monday was my first day of work and it involved a lot of reading. But Monday night involved a trip to The Moth story telling slam. It was awesome, I recommend that you listen to the podcast, there’s a great story about a holocaust necklace. As for tonight (Tuesday), it’s the last of Rabbi Shai Held’s classes on Heshel at Hadar. So I’ll be going to that and then maybe I’ll make it to Salsa dancing too (if I’m not totally exhausted).

As for the holiday, I’ll be in Maryland with my friend Naomi. We were housemates in Jerusalem and her Mum is an awesome conservative rabbi. Shabbat I think I’ll be at my friend Erica’s parents place in Connecticut, but really, anything could happen. Maybe I'll go to Washington DC and explore?

So far NYC has been treating me pretty well. I haven’t gotten lost once and the subway has been easy and punctual. Two complaints though: There are not enough post offices or supermarkets. Also things close. Particularly supermarkets at about 10pm. WHEN DO NEW YORKERS SHOP? Quite honestly after Caulfield I was surprised that supermarkets close at all let alone so early. In any case, due to these two inconveniences I have not yet posted things that I need to post (like in the mail) nor have I managed to make it to a supermarket which has left me a bit hungry but I’ve been managing.

I suppose that’s all for now. I intend to blog more regularly once my life settles down some more.
Thanks for checking in – Ms B

Monday, July 16, 2012

The End: Part II


Friday at work was really average just tying up loose ends and transferring information back to Kate as we finished up.
Friday afternoon Zoe and Kara and I went down to the Katherine River in Knott Crossing and put our feet in the very cooling and refreshing waters. It was a good thing we didn't see the 'Danger: Crocodiles' sign till afterwards.

Friday evening I made roast potatoes, stuffed capsicums a salad and some yummy banana bread. Zoe my housemate was there (John's gone to Melbourne) as well as Kara the American intern and Brent who is a dietician working in community health education in the remote communities. Pretty awesome right?

After dinner we went out walking to the local field watching wallabies jump around. It was dark and hard to see but there were a ton of them.

Shabbat morning I slept in and picked up "The Finkler Question" again. It's an ok book. Zoe went to the local museum but he was disappointed to discover that it was really just about white settlement of the area with no discussion of local indigenous cultures. No surprises there really.

After that we went down to the hot springs and hung out there for a while and then went passed Kara's place on our way to the opening of the local cultural centre. Sadly we'd missed most of the Aboriginal dancing but there was lot's of local art and artists around but sadly not a very big turn out, then again, Katherine isn't exactly 'culturally aware.'

After going home and shabbat going out we went back to the cultural centre to see the Fire B Boys who do indigenous dancing with fire. To 80s music! Seriously, it was awesome, particularly when they danced to MC Hammer's 'Can't touch this.' Pure perfection.

Saturday night we went to a housewarming party for one of the lawyers at NAAJA. It was surprisingly good fun. Kara the American enjoyed the barbequed kangaroo and crocodile and the company of the young lawyers was pleasant. It was nice to social with like-minded lawyers who care about using their powers for good and not evil.

While at the party one of the KWILS (Katherine Women's Information Legal Service) Lawyers, Danielle (coincidentally on my first weekend in Ktown I went to her 30th) offered me a ride to Darwin. Which was beyond brilliant.

I left the party pretty early (11ish) to go home and pack. Responsible aye?

Sunday morning Kara came over and we made a great brunch of fried mushrooms and tomatoes and toast and good coffee. It was delicious.

The ride to Darwin with Danielle and her boss was nice though we had to stop every hour so that her boss Kylie could smoke. I have no idea what that woman does on aeroplanes.

Sunday night I stayed at Jo's place again. We had a great chat about NAAVLS and how it could be improved. She's a really impressive person. Her daughter's wedding had been the day before and the house was still full of family and friends who were staying there for the wedding. But she still made time for me and made me feel super welcome.

That evening I went to the Mindil markets again. There's not really anything to buy there but I did get me some good Indian food (again).

Today (Monday) I went into the NAAFVLS office to have a final chat with Tony the CEO and to tell him how I think the organisation could be improved and about my concerns relating to Kate. There's 2 new lawyers coming in with hopefully a 3rd on the way as well as another intern so hopefully the place should be a bit better.

And now I'm at the airport on my way to Sydney.

I'm probably not going to blog again until my next adventure.

So I suppose my final thoughts on this experience are quite bleak. The problems for indigenous Australians are many. Health problems, social problems, financial, educational, prejudice and discrimination as well as alcoholism, mental illness and homelessness. There were many times on my internship that I felt overwhelmed by the despair in these communities. Sadly, I'd say that by the end I'd developed kind of a new measuring stick for suffering. My threshold for compassion was raised and that disappoints me. I supposed I'm disappointed in myself in my ability to consistently care.

How are we going to fix it?

Straight up - I have no  idea.

Remote communities are hard to service. It's expensive to provide health and educational services to isolated areas. It also requires a very strong cultural change within the communities which can only com from within. Outsides and guide and lead and educate till we're blue in the face (and we haven't been pulling out weight enough on that front) but ultimately the communities can become functional and safe with a good quality of life and life expectancy by the will of the community itself. The communities have to chose that though, outsiders can't choose it for them.

I suppose for my line of work specifically, men need to stop hitting women. But really, don't stab them, don't slap then, don't burn them, don't push them into crocodile infested waters, don't hit them with a metal rod. Women also need to leave those situations. They need to resources and self-belief to pick up and get out and look after themselves. But I suppose that both of those issues are really community cultural issues that can obviously be helped by education but is also manifest in the personal decisions of individuals. And there's only so much control or influence we have over that.

Bleak? Yeah, well, in the most beautiful part of Australia it is pretty bleak. 

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Timber Creek


Monday was a good day. I got up early and came into the office to do some more moot research. The client then came in and signed all the affidavits and applications and I lodged them with the court. Kate and I then had a brief negotiation with the police prosecutor who wasn't willing to budge so I went back to the office and researched some issues for the case before we went back to court. Ultimately, though, it was stood down for mention this Wednesday afternoon and then a hearing in August so it wasn't really so exciting.

After that we drove 3 hours to Timber Creek, which was a beautiful drive along the escarpments towards the sunset. That evening I hung out at the town pub with the locals and my housemates who were also in TK for the bush courts. On the wall of the bar was a big board covered in names of the banned drinkers list and another 'shameful behaviour' list which I assumed was the warning list before getting banned. The lists were full of my clients or the defendants in the matters.

Today was the bush courts so bright and early we went to the police station and got a lit of the matters being heard and who the victims in the domestic violence matters were. Then we drove to the town centre and had a chat with the locals trying to find our old clients and the new victims of DV.

There was one women who approached us and said that she had a domestic violence matter on in court today. So I got all her details and had her sign the forms and started to conduct an interview. She told me how she'd been with her husband for 20 years and they have 4 kids together and that this is the first domestic violence issue. I asked where it happened and she said behind the pub. And I asked if her and her husband had been drinking and she said no, neither of them drink. So I asked what had happened. She said, well I noticed my husband hadn't come home by 9pm so I went looking for him. And I saw his car parked and he was sitting in there was another lady. So I grabbed a stick and snuck up behind them very quietly and then struck her husband on the head through the open car window. The other woman ran out and ran away. Her husband leapt out of the car and she hit him some more with the stick. What happened next? I asked. I drove away with the car and left him there, she answered. And then he came home and bashed you? I asked. No. He slept out by the bush and the next day I came and collected him. And then he bashed you? I asked. No, she answered, he never bashed me. But if he ever thinks of cheating on me I'll bash him. And then I realised, the victim of this incident was her husband. We had a big old laugh and I told her that she'll have to peak to a defence lawyer since we only work with victims of domestic violence. I then had an interview with her husband, he was the sweetest guy and seemed really good with the kids and had a good job but he was happy to have a restraining order on her so that she couldn't hit him anymore.

The rest of the day was spent interviewing clients and advising them about domestic violence orders and liaising with police about the terms of these orders and varying them. After lunch we left the court and went to visit the communities themselves. They were small and neat. Though some houses obviously were a bit decrepit and had too many  people living in them. Furthermore there were huge packs o giant dogs roaming the communities. Some of the communities we visited were 'dry' zones under the intervention which meant that no alcohol or drugs or pornography could be brought there. Though ultimately it just means that the alcoholics go into town to drink leaving their children alone or neglected. Though the basics card that quarantines some of their Centrelink payments now limits the amount of money that can be drank away.

After visiting the communities we drove to a number of beautiful lookout points and admired the really stunning scenery. After that I lounged by the pool until it was dark and then I returned to my motel room to research the moot some more.

Tomorrow morning we drive back to Katherine (though I think we should have done it tonight) and tomorrow afternoon we are back in court for that mention that was first heard on Monday.

It's almost the end of my time in Katherine. I'll be sorry to leave.

On that note, g'nite. 

Monday, July 2, 2012

Joy


I had a super wonderful weekend.

Friday night Janie came over to have shabz dinner with my housemate n I. Janie is a doctor from Melbourne and is incredibly impressive. Tall, blonde, thin, smiley, bubbly, energetic, fit/sporty, funny.. Honestly, she's perfection. I'd made lasagne and fruit crumble for dinner and I'd say it all went pretty well.  We hung out and chatted til it was too late for anything else n we went to bed. Shabz morning, Zoe (my housemate) n I went for a walk, we wandered through the markets and along the river. Then we came come, had some lunch n lounged/napped the rest of the afternoon. Shabbat arvo we walked over to Janie's house for a picnic. It was a bit awkward that walk. I didn't carry anything over b/c it was still shabz but I wasn't too keen to go explaining that whole thing (thus far I'd managed to avoid explaining shabbat to Zoe, except for the Friday night dinner things). So Zoe was carrying two bags and she was just too polite to ask me to take one for her. But I just didn't know how to explain to her shabbat without sounding a bit nuts/crazy. But so that I won't seem like an asshole who doesn't carry things I probably will. In any case, the dinner picnic was lovely. It was vegetarian (as is everything in Katherine since everybody I meet is a do-gooder greenie), we lay a blanket out on the grass lit some candles and had a great evening. There were a heap of ex-pats from Melbourne or Sydney who were doctors and lawyers and teachers. Good fun.

Sunday morning we got up super early and John (my housemate) took Zoe n I to Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge. Another guy from Melbourne called Glen joined us. He's an environmental educator. We wanted to go canoeing in the gorge but there weren't any. So we did a long hike. It was 6 hours of hiking plus about 2 hours of swimming along the way. It was the lily pond walk, about 20 kms round trip. You walk to all these beautiful little ponds and water falls along the way to the gorge. We went swimming in one it was totally incredible. There was also a very impressive waterfall just before the end. We had a bit of a shower under that. It was breathtaking. And then the gorge itself was stunning. After the 8 hour of hiking. We did another little hike (about 1hr round trip) up a little mountain they have in the park to watch the sun set. It was really the perfect day.

Sunday was Territory Day. The day the Northern territory celebrates independence from South Australia. It is also the only day of the year that fireworks are legal in the NT. So after the hike, John took Zoe n I to the show grounds to see the fireworks. They were pretty exciting. Very pretty and loud. Yet, b/c individuals could do fireworks the whole  town sounded like a war zone. 

Today was a pretty good day at work. I was given the task of preparing all the files for Borroloola. So preparing the pre-trip report. Making sure the clients know we are coming, what documents they'll need to bring, what the court list is like etc. It's good work and it should be interesting. I got to interview my first clients today more or less by myself. One was a woman whose child had been kidnapped by her ex-partner and is now seeking a recovery order. She was breastfeeding a 3 year old during the interview. Now that's fucked. Also, the 3 year old is her 2nd child and she's younger than me.  The other was a woman who reckons she lied in court to get her boyfriend into prison and now she feels sorry. So she could get 15 years in prison for that. More than anything I'm not sure if she really did lie then or if she's lying now to get her boyf out of prison.

Tonight I made spinach and ricotta pie for my housemates.  It was super yummy.

So I'd say this week is going to be above average. It's definitely looking up. I get the car this week one day n I'll probably go to the hot springs in Mataranka about 100kms away. Maybe I'll bring somebody along with me. Maybe I won't. We'll see.

Joy

Thursday, June 28, 2012

The 9 to 5

So what's happened since Wednesday?

Well, Thursday and a bit of Friday that's what.

Thursday was not a bad day.

Kate was doing better with communication and I had a huge giant ton of work to get done, which always makes me happy.

There were some interesting cases too.

We had one woman come in and say that she'd lied in court a few weeks ago about her partner assaulting her and now she wants to revoke her statements. She says he never assaulted her but the police made it up. This is after her partner has been sitting in prison for a couple of weeks. We listen to what she says and then call the police to get a copy of the file and her partners criminal history. Not only are there pictures of her injuries (including bad brusing along her very pregnant belly) but there are two witnesses statements as well. Furthermore, her partner has a 14 page criminal history beginning at age 10 with thefts and burglaries and moving on to aggravated (that means with a weapon) assault by age 13. So we're going to have another appointment with her and try to convince her that it's probably not in her interests to revoke the statements (well, because she might go to prison for lying to the court). But it's generally sad that she wants him back and that she's willing to go to prison herself to get her abuser out of prison.

Another case was of a lesbian aboriginal couple. Very interesting, they'd both been married before and had kids. After those marriages ended they found eachother and started a relationship and moved in together. The problem is that they are both alcoholics and so their relationship is pretty abusive. But it seems from our clients statements that their kids and parents are pretty accepting of their new same-sex relationship. Cool aye?

Lastly, we had a very sad case of a girl who is 17 now but at the time of the assault had been 14, she got compensation from the government (it's a NT thing) and it's sitting in the state trustees' account until she's 18. Her very very very drunk mother came in and tried to access that money for herself. We explained that it's her her daughter and in anycase her daughter can't access it until she's 18. But it seems inevitable that when that money is released it will be drunk away very quickly.

On to less sad topics and more frustrating topics.

The solicitor, my supervisor Kate didn't come into the office today. She didn't call me or text me or email me letting me know. Sure, I had work to do but I've finished it now. She really is the worst communicator. So I'm likely to spend the afternoon watching court proceedings. Which is actually pretty ok with me.

On to less sad or frustrating topics.

I have a happy weekend ahead of me. Tonight I'm having some (very new) friends over for dinner, I'm making lasagna. Tomorrow evening I'm going to a picnic. Sunday I have a BBQ for Territory Day (the day the NT got independance from SA) and hopefully I'll be going camping to the Katherine Gorge for that night.

And then who knows that next week will bring?

I hope you have have a great weekend, shabbat shalom, Ms. B

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

The Weekend

So what's been going on since Thursday?

Not much to be honest.

Friday morning I got up super early and caught the 4 hours bus to Katherine. The bus ride was a bit uncomfortable inasmuch as there were white and aboriginal passengers, yet the black passengers all sat at the back of the bus. No kidding. It's like Mississippi here. To be fair, they got on after the white passengers so it's possible that it's just a coincidence. But I also didn't understand why the white passengers were boarded first.

After arriving in Katherine John my housemate and fellow lawyer came and picked me up and took me to my new home. It's a biggish, newish 3 bedroom house with 2 verandas and a big garden. Also 2 adorable cats. One is an adult called Cheeky and the other is about 12 weeks old called Minidjar which is the local indigenous word for kitten. They are both the cutest things ever.

John gave me a brief intro to Katherine and went back to work (as a criminal lawyer for another community legal service).

I then hopped on one of the household bikes and rode into town (about 2 kms away). I locked up the bike and went for a walk around Katherine. It was a big of a shock. There's huge numbers (well, proportionately to the size of the town) of homeless people sitting on the footpaths, on the nature strips and local parks. They are almost exclusively aboriginal. Apparently because of the intervention there's no alcohol in the indigenous communities. Which means that all the alcoholics have simply left their communities, families and children behind to come and live on the street of Katherine (and Darwin) where they can get a drink. Interestingly, the communities view this as a good and bad thing. Because on the one hand its sad for them to have people leave the places where they belong. On the other hand supposedly some of the families are benefiting from having abusive or difficult family members leave them alone. 

I wandered around the main street of Ktown, taking it all in, sometimes feeling a bit intimidated. But generally being surprised at how small the town is. It's basically one street of shops. And they aren't great shops.

So I went to the Woolworths. I bought all the necessities including things for Shabbat (candles, bread rolls etc..) I rode my bike home and started getting ready for the Sabbath. I cooked vegetarian bolognaise. I then grabbed my camera and went for a walk along the river bank near my house. The sun was pretty strong though so I quickly returned home to shower.

After showering I lit candles and davened kabbalat shabbat all on my lonesome (to be honest, after 3 months of it in Africa, I'm used to it by now).

At about  7ish, John my housemate came home from work. We had dinner together, I did kiddush and hamotzi for him. We had a brief chat about being a traditional Jew on shabbat and how I won't be turning on or off any lights or using electricity. I turns out that he is dating another Melbourne Jew who is up in Katherine doing Teach For Australia. Her name is Gaby, but I didn't ask for a surname coz I thought it'd be too J-Comm nosey to do that. She's on school holidays now so is returning to Melbourne anyway.

After dinner John went out and I settled in to read my book (The Help - pretty fitting given my location I reckon).

Shabbat day I got up about 9ish. Davened, breakfasted and went out for a long walk. There are some cute markets in town that I wandered through. They were selling the usual arts and crafts and candles n the like. As well as some great home grown fruit and vegetables that looked super fresh. I continued walked across Katherine bridge and by the river. It was really exceptionally beautiful.

I came home and read some more.

Just as shabbat was going out, John came home (he'd worked that day, poor guy). He invited me along to the party he was going to. I graciously accepted and after shabz we picked up some of his (fellow lawyer) friends and off we went.

The party was on a homestead nearby. It had huge paddocks and the stars were incredible. You could see all of the marbling from the milky way. The woman whose party it was, was turning 30 and she used to work for NAAFVLS, the organisation that I'm volunteering for. As it was the party was full of community lawyers. One was an editor for the Alternative Law Journal, another writes policy for the NT government regarding child protection.

I had a good chat with a bloke called Daniel by the bon fire about NAAFVLS. I knew it was under administration but I didn't know why. Turns out Daniel had been working there at that time. The CEO had been incredibly corrupt using the organisation's money to fund overseas trips to the Philippines and to 'employ' family members. When it came to light, all the employees (other than the fake family ones who were fired) quit in protest except for Rhonda. Luckily, the CEO was fired and replaced and the board dissolved. Hopefully in the next few weeks it should come out of administration.

All in all it was a fun party, the people were very friendly.

Today (Sunday the 24th of June), I got up early(ish) did the usual morning things got dressed and rode the bike the half hour down to the local hot springs. They were great fun. I went for a bit of a hike around the nature reserve around them and along the Katherine river. I then spent the rest of the day swimming in the hot springs and lying on the banks in the sun reading a book about the aboriginal resistance to white colonisation and settlement. It's pretty interesting.

I then rode home, made some pancakes and rice pudding. Yummy.

Tonight I'm having pasta bake for dinner with my housemate John.

Tomorrow it all starts at NAAFVLS. I'm pretty excited I guess.

Thursday, June 21, 2012

An Education

The past two days have been above average interesting.

Tuesday night the lawyer came home late and we had a great long chat about the Northern Territory and about The Intervention and about being a female lawyer. She told me that there are some really serious cases of child abuse in the communities but social workers and government agencies are hesitant to remove children from their families because of the Stolen Generation guilt. I can understand how it's pretty uncomfortable to be put in a situation where you have to remove Aboriginal children from their families given how much hurt that's caused previously. But at the same time, maybe we are letting down this generation of indigenous Australians by leaving them in abusive situations.

In our conversation she also advised me to become a barrister. She reckons that as a woman it's more suitable since you are independent and can have more flexible hours.  She makes a good point.

Wednesday I was in the office again. I prepared a volunteers' handbook, and a 'how to' guide to using CLSIS (our client database) as well as a bunch of community education programs one about family law and another more general  youth education one.

Wednesday night we cooked eggplant and pumpkin and rice and the lawyer and her husband had some guests over. Their daughter and fiance came as did a friend of theirs. Their daughter is a family lawyer and her husband is a public prosecutor. The friend works in the corrections system as a quasi social worker for prisoners on parole. Let me tell you, it was fascinating. The stories they had. It was particularly interesting hearing a public prosecutor and a parole officer chatting. Since they essentially deal with the two ends of the prison system - when people enter it - and when people leave it.

Today (Thursday) we had a cultural education seminar. An elder who does this professionally came out to talk to us. I learned many things.

For example - traditionally aborigines have highly gender segregated societies. It's patriarchal. The men make the decisions for the community (though, they might consult with the women). Men and women who aren't related to each other can't talk to each other or look at one another. indeed this applies even if you are related through marriage. Which means that you can't look at or talk to your mother/father-in-law.

Furthermore in these promise marriages there are multiple wives. Sometimes with a very large age gap between the husband and wife. Furthermore the wife can no say in getting married and within the marriage sex is his right and she has no right to refuse.

Also, aborigines have black magic. They have witch doctors who will curse people to become mentally ill, or sick in general and die (sometimes by killing themselves). So if you are in a fight with somebody  you can get the witch doctor to 'sing' them. But they also have good witch doctors who can cure you. Sometimes.

Lastly, and I found this particularly interesting, in the Tiwi Islands (Torres Strait Islanders) there's a group called 'sister-girls' of trans-gendered men. How interesting is that?!They have sex with otherwise straight men only and insist on being counted as the women. Very cool. It was also really surprising to hear about the gay people in these remote communities and how they are tolerated (if not fully accepted). Though, obviously, eventually they all seem to move to big cities. But it was great hearing how the indigenous communities are ok with variations of sexual identity.

Tomorrow I am (finally) off the Katherine.

Woot!

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Day 2

So today was my second day in the Darwin office. It was certainly less interactive than yesterday. I spent most of the day working on educational material about domestic violence, sexual abuse and child abuse for when we go to remote communities and I started creating a volunteers handbook.

The sad news today was that one of our clients died. She lived in a remote community. She was young and healthy so they have sent her body up to Darwin to the coroner's office to try and work out the cause of death. Though the social workers reckon it's most likely suicide. We looked up her file so we could close it. She had a good decade-long string of various incidents and abuses. And then we saw her birth date. She was born in 1989. She was only 22.

I suppose that this incident really drove home what I began realising yesterday. That even if I've dealt with domestic violence and intervention orders before, up here, it's a whole new story. Here the injuries are really serious (already I've seen stabs to the head and an entire broken leg). Here, I guess, if we don't get the work done properly people might die. 

Monday, June 18, 2012

A Return to/from Obscurity

Hi all,

I'm sure you've been sincerely missing the lack of blog posts the past few months. Let me tell you, you weren't missing out on much. University, working as a waitress, volunteering in the Family Court. Nothing too exciting.

However, for the next month my life should become a bit more exciting. I'm interning for the North Australian Aboriginal Family Violence Legal Service. I'm starting off in Darwin for this week getting to know the organisation and doing some cultural awareness training. Then next week and until the middle of July, I'll be in Katherine (halfway between Darwin and Alice Springs) servicing the various remote communities in the area.

Last night I arrived in Darwin (after a nauseating flight, connection and then another flight). I was picked up by a lawyer for NAAFVLS. I'm staying at her house. That night I went down to some markets by the beach. I watched the sun set (beautiful) listened to a heap of indigenous bands and watched some aboriginal dancers (strangely dancing like Beyonce circa 'crazy in love'). I also got some great dahl and rice (praise be to vegetarian Indians!).

Today, I went into the office and had some training. I shadowed one of the social workers for most of the day, visiting clients and developing community education presentations.

Already I've seen some less-than-pleasant things. The first client we visited was staying at a women's shelter. It was this enormous complex of women and their many very young children living in fibro/corrugated iron cabins surrounded by barbed wire and security gates. The women were cut and bandaged and limping. What was most shocking was how large the complex was. Hundreds of people must be living there.

Later we went to visit a homeless Aborigines' hostel. Our client there had been stabbed in the head a number of times by her husband - who is now in prison - and has a hip to ankle cast from having her multiple breaks/fractures along her whole leg from a beating by her brother-in-law. The hostel was this large grey concrete institution with 4 people to a room, no privacy or safe places to keep your belongings. The place was very dirty with used nappies lying around the place.

I later learned that this woman's abusive husband was her Promise Husband. She comes from a remote community where when she was very young, or even before she was born she was promised as a wife to another community member, probably much older than her. When he demanded it she was given to live with him as his wife, no matter that she was very young (sometimes these girls can be as young at 6 or 7). She has said now that she doesn't want to return to him or to that life.

I suppose that this is only the very beginning. Apart from working in Katherine, I've been told that I will also get to visit the remote communities following the travelling courts so I can help with drafting and filing of court documents and applications.

I suppose that I'm enthusiastic and exited even if I'm also a bit apprehensive for what I will have to deal with.

Until next time,

Ms.B

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Dvar Torah

Dvar Torah 24th march 2012

Let’s start with a hassidic story with a twist.

It was a Friday morning in Ghana, in a remote seaside village called Akwiida. Now I had to get to another remote coastal village called Prince’s Town for Shabbat. So bright and early I walked to the centre of the village and hopped into the minivan they have for public transport. They call them tro-tros. The trip should be about 3 hours and since it was only 8.30am, you would think there wouldn’t be any problems getting to Prince’s Town before Shabbat. Well if that was the case, I wouldn’t be telling you this story. You see these tro-tros only leave once they are full, so I was the first person and I had to wait for another 11 people to join me before I could begin the journey. So I sat and I waited. And I sat and I waited and slowly slowly the tro-tro began to fill. A woman with her baby stapped to her back hopped in. One of the town elders sat down. A giant box of chickens gets placed next to me and then the rest of the space it taken up by goats.

After about 2 hours, at 10.30am the minivan was full and we are ready to commence our trip. So as is usual all the men get out of the minivan and start pushing. You see there was something wrong with the starter motor. Obviously. But nevertheless they get the van moving. Also, the front tires were flat so every 10 minutes or so the driver has to stop the van and pump up the tires with a bicycle pump. But every time we stop to do that all the men have to get out and push the van again to get it started again. Also it had been raining the night before and since there are no sealed roads we were essentially driving through mud. So occasionally we’d get bogged in the mud and all the men would have to file out again and push the van, again. It seemed to me that instead of being driven to my destination I was being pushed there.

Now after about 2 hours of this I was getting a bit stressed. We’d covered maybe one quarter of the distance and it was already the afternoon. There was at least another 2 and a half hours left of the journey in ideal conditions and Shabbat would be coming in at about 5pm. I became more and more nervous with every stop and start that I’d end up spending Shabbat lost in the jungle.

And then a funny thought came to my mind. In high school I’d been told many hassidic stories about the baal shem tov travelling on Friday and his cart breaking down. It seemed like every time he travelled on a Friday his cart broke down. I always joked to myself, didn’t he learn? Didn’t he know already not to travel on Fridays? I laughed to myself b/c after all those stories I hadn’t learnt that if you travel on a Friday you’re cart will break down. But instead of ending up in a polish forest I was going to end up in the jungle. Then to entertain and or comfort myself I started humming a niggun. Just humming quietly to myself. But the guy next to me could hear me humming and he picked up the tune. Africans love music and singing so he was a lot louder about it than me. So quite quickly the woman sitting next to him started singing it too. Evidently it was a pretty catchy niggun because soon enough the whole tro tro was singing it. We were riding through this muddy dirt road in the jungle in west Africa in a minivan full of goats and chickens singing this niggun, probably louder and with more passion than I’ve heard at the even the drunkest ferbreigans in Jerusalem. I felt better. I felt like yes, this is how those Hasidic stories go. The cart breaks down, the baal shem tov starts singing, his hassidim start singing and then with the help of G-d they get to the shtetle in time for Shabbat. I felt like this niggun was going to save me.

But then the tro tro broke down.

I nearly burst into tears.

So we unloaded the bundles of vegetables to be sold in the market and we unloaded the box full of chickens and we unloaded the goats and we started walking along the muddy dirt road to the closest village. And then my fellow travellers started singing the niggun. And I felt better knowing that if I had to spend Shabbat in the jungle at least we could have a great tisch.

The end of the story is yes, I eventually made it to the right village in time for Shabbat.

So now what does this have to do with parashat vayikra? Well, don’t worry, we’ll get there.

But now I have to tell you something else. I’m not really so interested in talking to you about the indigenous Jewish community that I worked with in Ghana. Look, they are cool, but instead of telling you about Judaism in Ghana I want to talk to you about my Judaism in Ghana. What did I learn about my western rabbinic Judaism while in the 3rd world.

Now it would be great if I could categorise what I’ve learnt into say, three categories; rituals, morals and functions. But much of what I learnt overlaps between those three categories.

Because you see, a lot of what I learnt in African was that many of the Jewish laws that I relegated to the ritual category actually fall into the moral and functional category instead.

Let’s start with a really basic ritual. Hand washing. Now up until I went to Ghana I gave little thought to washing my hands before I ate unless it was a ritual requirement, such as before bread. And as it turns out in Ghana they had pretty much the same attitude as me that is – if I can’t see the germs they aren’t there. The only differences in Ghana are that a) they eat with their hands and b) the germs are actually there and they are hepatitis. When I asked them why they don’t wash their hands they deemed it to be a waste of water. And I see their point. If all the water you have to use in your household had to be carried on your head from the well every day, you are going to be very careful about how use it. Indeed unless you have a law requiring you to use a cupful of water washing your hands before every meal you simply wouldn’t waste water. And just think how much more likely you are to follow that law if you believe that it’s divinely commanded.

The same goes for much of ritual impurity. To me the whole world of tumah and tehara seemed totally incomprehensible. And yet, once I was living in a world with many fungal skin diseases, and yes, even leprosy, I realised just how useful it would be to prevent the spread by isolating the diseases. Oh and to make them immerse in a body of water before re-entering the community, because without a law requiring you to wash, you’re unlikely to do it. Indeed many of the Ghanaians I’d met had never immersed in water in the whole lives.

These are just a few examples of how something that I’d previously considered purely ritual may actualy has a very significant functional purpose.

Now let us consider something that I’d also considered to be a ritual requirement but actually turned out to have a strong moral function.

Australia day happened to also be the date of my farewell party and so I wanted to give my housemates a real Australian party. So I bought a goat for my housemates to eat. They killed it with the kitchen knife. The knife that I could barely chop my yams with they were using to kill the goat. I of course was far away while this was happening. During dinner, where I ate my vegetarian stew and rice, we discussed killing animals and how my housemates feel about it. They were really interested in the slaughter practices that my ‘tribe’ practiced but they pointed out that it would be very expensive to run. That it would require training somebody and for them to have a special knife that they keep extra sharp. They seemed to think that this was too burdensome simply for the sake of the animals. However when I told them they it was a religious law of ours they seems to think it more reasonable for god rather than animal welfare to impose such a burden. They went on to defend themselves pointing out that they were more moral then the neighbouring tribes who cut up the goat while it is still alive. Until that day I didn’t understand why ever min ha’chai – the noahide law prohibiting that exact practice was necessary.

And now we get to the stage that relates more directly to this week’s parashah. Previously this week’s parsha, indeed almost all of sefer vayikra, I placed in the irrelevant and incomprehensible category. I simplly could not understand why you would kill animals for your god. But then, of course, I went to Ghana. On the first Shabbat, and indeed every Shabbat that I was there, I cooked Friday night dinner for my housemates. Over the meal they asked me what is a Jew – they had never heard of one before. But since they were all religious Christians, as well as being practicing pagans, I explained that we are the people in the bible that god took out of Egypt and then led into the land of Israel. Which tribe was I from they asked. I told them that I’m from Judah and indeed apart from the tribe of levi all the other tribes had been killed. They were devastated to hear about this. They then asked what I was going to do about the sacrifices while I was here. I didn’t really understand the question so they continued on – would I be using their local alters or would I have to build my own? Did I give the sacrifices or could only a priest do it? I was so surprised that these engineering students, accounting students and law students were asking me about my sacrificial practices. Needless to say they were very disappointed to discover that we no longer did that but had replaced it with prayer.

One of my housemates was the chief’s grandson. The chief was responsible for giving the sacrifices once a month on behalf of the community in order to keep them safe from the local gods. And so I asked him how this whole sacrifice thing works. He at first was confused by my question. He said that’s simply the way everybody worships. That’s what is done. But then he went on to explain that obviously it’s not about what the god wants to eat. However, it’s the way the chief demonstrates humility and recognises the power of the god. By sacrificing the animals it’s the chief’s way of declaring that the community is wholly dependent on their local god and that all they have is because of him. Indeed, he is the one who has enabled them to have so many goats and thereby can require them to return them to him when he demands.

Now this shed a whole new light on sacrifices. They were perhaps reasons that I’d heard before from primary school teachers but they took on a whole new level of authenticity when they came from the mouth of somebody who actually gives sacrifices.

But later on my revelations regarding sacrifices became even more significant when there was news that a chief in the Ashtanti region had died. Now when a chief dies in this region 4 human sacrifices are required to ensure his passage into the next world. And so 4 people are killed. Furthermore they are frequently children because they are easier to kill. Depending on who I spoke to some Ashantis told me that it’s actually a great honour and that people offer themselves up for this, though most seemed to dispute this claim.

This information brought Akeidat Yitzchak into a whole new level of meaning. Though the more I thought about it the more this affected how I understood sacrifices in the torah. If the laws are dictated to you, detail by detail what you must bring, when you must bring it, how you must bring it and that these laws are public knowledge, well then you can’t bring human sacrifices any more. And in a world where human sacrifices are common occurrences that’s a really big deal. You don’t even have that option anymore, and if the other tribes are so committed to their god only a divine command from yours could stop you from doing this.

And so now, while I’m still not enamoured with parshat vayikra or even sefer vayikra and I still have no personal desire to comply with these commands and actually sacrifice animals I feel like I can approach these laws with a new level of understanding. They were necessary, they were revolutionary, they were functional and they were moral. These laws are not chukkim, they are not mere ritual but rather they serve significant purposes in society and indeed they would only have the power to change society if they were believed to be a divine command.

But I suppose the next question is: well, that’s all well and good, but what do I do with this? It’s great that Judaism used to be relevant 2,000 years ago while the temple existed but what should I do with this today?

Well, I’ll tell you the first lesson that I learnt from this. I learnt that while Israeli academic Yeshayahu Leibowitz claimed to be Maimonadean, it seems that he probably wasn’t. Yeshayahu Leibowitz claimed that the whole point of Judaism was to worship god for worships sake and that halacha played no functional or moral role in society. Indeed, if one were to perform a mitzvah for any collateral reason other than the service of hashem then that was akin to idolatry. Now, having seen idolatry, I can safely say that he couldn’t be further from the truth. But moreover, and conversely, Rambam claims that there are different categories of reason behind the mitzvot. And that many fall into the category of creating a society in which people can philosophise about god. Indeed if you are constantly falling ill because nobody washes their hands well, that would probably prevent you from thinking about god. Even more so if you think that god wants you to kill your child for him well that could give you incorrect conceptions about god, and that, for Rambam, is really troubling.

And so now, when I read the torah and there are endless laws about sacrifices and about purity and impurity I know that these laws are not arbitrary. That the torah is not a random set of laws that we must follow for no purpose other than to worship god. Instead the torah, inclusive of parahat vayikra is a way of life, it’s a guide as to how to create a better society, a healthier society, a more efficient society and perhaps most importantly a more moral society. And this is not only true for Judaism in biblical times or temple times but its true today.

This brings me to the second lesson that I’ve learnt from Ghana, that it’s our responsibility to keep Judaism as that ideal way of life and to not allow it to become an arbitrary set of archaic laws. We ourselves are responsible to ensuring that halacha continues to help us build a better society.

And on that note, Shabbat shalom.

Monday, March 5, 2012

3rd World Travel Kit

Don't worry, my thinky posts on inter-cultural dating and Judaism in the 3rd world are on their way.

But in the mean time here's something that's actually useful.

My 3rd World Travel Kit List.

  • 1ltr hand sanitizer (there will be times that you will wat to wash your whole body with alcohol)
  • Cotton sleeping bag liner (it will be too hot for a full sleeping bag)
  • Pack of cards
  • Swiss army knife
  • Washing line (one of those strechy ones from the travel section of a chemist)
  • Carry toilet paper with you (at all times, even to bed).
  • 2 pairs pants - that have pockets and can be shortened to shorts
  • 4 tops (one long sleeved) cotton/loose
  • 1 cardigan/light jumper
  • Headscarf (for covering your hair so it doesn't becoming frizzy/knotty from the wind/humidity and dirty from the dust, b/c washing your hair when there's no running water is a serious mission)
  • Oversized sunglasses (protection from sun and dust)
  • Hiking boots/walking shoes
  • Thongs
  • Mini quick dry towel
  • Mosquito net/repellant
  • Malaria tablets/treatment
  • Anti-histamines (b/c the developing world is pretty much one giant allergen)
  • Anti-itch cream (b/c no matter how hard you try you will be bitten by mosquitos)
  • Betadine/antiseptic (resist the temptation to use these as soap)
  • Muesli bars
  • Packet soups
  • Multi-vitamins (b/c by the end you will be super malnourished)
  • Metamucil (fiber can be super hard to come across)
  • Bifidophilus tablets (to keep your gut healthy)
  • Gastro kit
  • Kickass loofah (resist the temptation to scrub off all your super filthy skin)
  • 1 weeks worth of underwear
  • Ipod with lectures/stories
  • Kindle if you are going to be there for more than 2 weeks (illiterate people tend to not be so keen on libraries/book stores so if you're a fast reader your gonna find it tough to find enough books to satiate your appetite)
  • Torch (vital due to lack of electricity)
  • Cutlery/shallow bowl/cup for hot drinks
  • Mouthwash/floss (sounds unnecessary but you really appreciate hygiene products in the 3rd world)
  • Plastic applicator tampons
  • Canvas shopping bag (always handy)
  • Handkerchief (for mopping up the fountain of sweat from your forehead)
  • Moneybelt
  • Small day bag that can't be slashed with a knife, that has zips and many pockets and can carry a water bottle.
  • water bottle, preferably metal with a clip.
  • A backpackers' backpack, approx 70 liters (suitcases, particularly ones with wheels are useless if there's no roads)
  • A sense of humour and adventure
Happy travels!

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Thursday the 9th

Sorry if this has been posted before and that it's out of order...


Wednesday the 8th of feb Brach n i slept in till 8am... Crazy late. We took our time getting up and then breakfasting. After breakfast we went to the viewing platform and watched gazelles and monkeys and elephants. We then acquired our books and went and chilled by the pool. We swam and read and swam and read until 3.30pm when we went on another walking safari. This one was heaps better than the other one. The guide was friendlier and more knowledgeable. Also there were crocodiles fighting and a bunch of elephants trumpeting together. It was pretty awesome. Also awesome are all the adorable baby warthogs wandering around the motel. Super cute.


Wednesday evening we chilled with 2 girls also travelling around ghana, one from vacouver canada and the other from williamsburg new york. It was great fun drinking and laughing about how terrible the movies are here and how much we all miss vegetables.


We went to bed by 11pm but by 3.30am we were up and quickly dressed so we could catch the only bus of the day out of there and 4am. This then involved 4 hours of dirty dusty bumpy roads and an overcrowded bus to tamale the northern regional capital. I really didn't lik this city though we were quite productive while there. The trouble with tamale is that it's poorer than the other cities so there are fewer cars and more motorcycles which are scary. Furthermore because the north are pastoralists and not agriculturalists food is more expensive there since it has to be imported from the south and there are more beggars since they don't do subsistence farming in the area. This was strange since mostly ghana is devoid of beggars except for the occasional refugee from another country (frequently chad) or if they are disabled and unable to work, but still, pretty uncommon.


So firstly bracha n i set out to find some coffee and toast. Which we did and we lounged about in the restaurant gathering our strength for the day. We then found a hideous public toilet which we wished to never use again (sadly we had to at a later point in the day). We then went to super awesome vodaphone internet cafe which had fast (by ghana standards) internet. After that to the pharmacy to buy anti-worming medication. Before you all get super judgy or grossed out, we as yet have no symptoms but 1) i'm pretty paranoid when it comes to africa and 2) it's common practice here to de-worm every 3 months and i've almost been here 3 months. We then went to the bus station, got ourselves some snacks for our epic 12 hour journey to accra. The bus left at 4pm and played super terrible nigerian movies the whole way. But luckily we were exhausted and napped most of it. But it wasn't quality sleep since frequently there were just bumpy dirt roads so the ride was very uncomfortable.


At 4am we arrived in accra with no idea what to do. 4am in a giant city?! I wasn't feeling great about it. But we asked to get dropped at the main tro tro yard, called circle, and from there we asked the tro tro drivers how we could get to Senya Beraku where we were staying for the weekend. As is always the case in ghana everybody was very friendly and helpful and we easily caught a tro tro to the first location and then a joining one on to Senya beraku. By 6.45am we had arrived at this adorable old slave fort come guesthouse. We were shown our room (20 cedies a night) with its lovely views over the ocean and the awesome toilets/sinks/showers with running water. So exciting. No more bucket showers and pit toilets!


We napped till 8.45am and then had breakfast, after 2 cups of coffee and one cup of tea each we felt much better. After that we slowly got ready to go to the beach. We walked past all the fishermen with their colourful boats to a more quiet beach. But no sooner had we sat down did some guy come up to make friends with us. Once he started telling us about this girl who was falsely claiming to be pregnant with his baby did we bail and continue walking to find another more private beach. Which we found easily belonging to some American guy and his super cute dog. We chilled there, we had books but preferred to chat, we stood in the water but didn't swim since it wasn't really hot enough. Then we grabbed some beans n plantain for lunch and acquired provisions for the sabbath.


I think we are the only guests in the house which is quite nice. Shabz will be spent sleeping (which will be lovely given the past 2 nights of interrupted travel related sleep), reading and walking along the beach. And we have enough bread/drinks/snacks to last us till after shabz.


Sunday morning our plan is to return to accra and organise some final things before our flights on Monday morning.


With that, shabbat shalom.

Sunday the 12th

Today is my last day in ghana. Crazy talk.


First i will catch you up on the nothing much that has happened since the last post. Brach n i did kabbalat shabbat together on the balcony of the fort overlooking the ocean. Would have been more beautiful had the beach not been used as a public toilet and was hence occasionally stinky depending on the direction of the wind. We had vegetables and rice for shabz dinner. We chatted but by 8pm the 2 nights without sleep caught up to us and we went to bed.


I woke up at 7.30am, brach was still sleeping. I dressed n davened, made kiddush on mango juice and had some biscuits for breakfast. But then i went back to bed. I read a bit more of nicole krauss's 'man walks into a room' and napped some more. Then i got up and brach n i read and discussed the parsha, after 10 shabatot of reading the parsha to myself it was lovely to have somebody to share it with. We then napped some more and ate some bread and beans and biscuits for lunch.


At around 1.30pm we decided to go for a walk back to the secret beach we'd phone the day before. So we did. And there we sat on the rocks with our feet in the water and talked abut everything as we normally do. At about 4.45pm we walked back to the fort. We sat out on the balcony overlooking the sea and watched the sky get darker until shabbat was out. We then showered and went out to get some kenkey for dinner. After that i watched the mali vs ghana game for the africa cup, ghana lost but they didn't deserve to win. They didn't play very well at all. It was a semi-final or a quarter final or something which i think means that they are now out of the tournament.


By this stage it was 9.15pm and hilariously bracha and i were exhausted. So we went to bed.


And now it is 7am on Sunday morning, my last day in ghana. We're gonna have breakfast and pack and try to be out of here by 9am. When we get to accra we're going to try and find a police station (long story, i'll let bracha explain it on her blog if she wants) and then maybe try and find some presents for people back home - this is a very hard task indeed - and lastly we're going to pack. This will be a complicated procedure since we're swapping many things between us since she's coming from winter (europe) and going to summer where as i'm coming from summer and going to winter (israel).


Since this is my last day in ghana i suppose that it's a good time to reflect on my time here. I still have 2 epic posts in the works about inter-cultural couples and about judaism in the 3rd world. But first some simple reflections.


What will i miss?


I will miss walking down the street and having everybody greet me, people saying welcome my friend, was really lovely. I will miss being totally safe, never being harassed or even hit on really. I will miss everybody being so helpful, asked that i'm ok, do i need help carrying my things, do i need directions etc. Ghanaians are really delightful, they are friendly and safe and helpful, perfect for travellers.


I will miss being able to buy a giant meal for 30cents that i will never be able to finish. I will miss buying fabric in the markets, taking it to the lady next door and having her make me a dress (with sleeves and pockets!) all for less than $10. but then again she always made the dresses too big to leave room for me becoming fat as i should be in africa.


Speaking of which, i will miss being in a culture that values women for the way they are. It was so refreshing to have the ideal woman having a giant ass and probably by western standards a bit fat as well. It was kinda nice to have everybody tell me that i'm too thin and i won't ever find a husband if i don't put on some weight.


I will miss the rhythm. The constant music in the background, the drumming and singing, the dancing.


I will miss my african friends. They were interesting and kind and would do anything for me. And let's face it, i have no black friends back home.


What won't i miss?


I won't miss being constantly paranoid that everything is going to make me sick and/or kill me. I won't miss the reckless tro tro drivers, the terrible roads and minivans with doors flying open regularly and windows of shattered glass being perilously close to my head. I won't miss the mosquitos and not being able to eat anything unpeeled and uncooked or not being able to drink the tap water (when there was tap water and not well water, which is also undrinkable).


I will not miss the food. Look, beans and plantain and rice and maize paste would suffice for maybe 3 meals, but when you have the same 3 meals on rotation for almost 3 months you go a little crazy. You start dreaming about being drowned in plantain and how terrible that would be.


This was a great trip. It was hard. Being the only Jewish white girl in a house of ghanaian boys was tough. Nobody really understood me and i was super alone. But i made friends. It was hard at the beginning doing to corporate funding stuff but i found ways to get back into what i'm good at and went to teach young people in 2 different schools and then in the jew village as well. It was hard keeping kosher and not being able to eat, pretty much anything here.


But i'm so happy i came. I learned so much about africa, about living in the developing world and i learned about the west from the outside and about my own culture which was developed in a world without running water or electricity.


All in all, היה טוב אבל טוב שהיה

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Wednesday the 8th

So my plan worked out. Sunday night i watched the ghana vs tunisia game where ghana won 2:1. After that there was a party in the house b/c it was robert's (ghanaian aisecer that i danced with when we went clubbing) swiss girlfriend's birthday. So they bought lots of drinks and played fun music and we danced n drank. I have a whole thing about white girls dating ghanaians but i'll save that rant for it's own post, however i would like to note that she was only turning 20 years old and robert is 26 but i'll elaborate on this later. Susan and I went to sleep late (like midnight) though bracha even later (after 2am) coz she was blogging.

At 4.30am Monday morning susan myself and bracha got up, got dressed, finished packing, caffeinated and by 5.15am we were on our way out. We caught a taxi with a total asshole to one junction and then a tro tro to the city and then another taxi to the bus station. We were there by 6.15am. This was important b/c the bus was leaving at 7am and none of us had valid tickets b/c we'd missed our bus the previous night while i was waiting to have my passport returned to me. So what we had to do was wait until 7 and if some people with valid tickets didn't rock up then we got their seats. Luckily this happened and by 1.15pm we had arrived in tamale. On the bus i listened to more philosophy podcasts, some mechon hadar shiurim and frank ocean on repeat.

The view on the bus was really interesting. The north of ghana is super different from the rest of it. There's no lush jungles anymore instead dry scraggly savannahs. The houses are totally different. In the south you get few mud huts here and there but mainly concrete homes with tin roofs. But in the less developed (who'd have though it was even possible) north almost every town was made up exclusively of traditional round mud huts with straw thatched roofs. The population here is majority muslim and polygamous so the huts are built in circular compounds. Each wife gets her own hut that she lives in with her children while the husband has his own hut and the women rotate taking turns with who sleeps in his hut each night. Even though this area is muslim i havn't noticed an increase in the number of women wearing hijabs or other muslim dress. I mean, women all over ghana cover their hair out of practicality not modesty so i suppose here it's simply a combination of the two.

When we arrived in tamale we bought return tickets to accra for Thursday night. We then hopped in a taxi (i'd like to say that each taxi has been around about $1 each and therefore worth it even though a tro tro would only cost 30 cents). We arrived at the government bus station, the only bus of the day to mole (pronounced mo-leh) national park was leaving at 2.30pm and when we asked at the ticket counter she said all the tickets are sold out you need to go try to ask the ticket conductor at the bus to let you on. So we did, and we got on. Super lucky.

The bus ride to mole was rough. 4 hours on a dirt road on an overcrowded bus. But by 6.30pm we arrived in mole, checked in and went to go chill by the pool. But given the length of our day by 9pm we were all totally exhausted and ready for bed. So we went to bed.

Tuesday morning we went on a walking safari at 7am in the park for 3 hours. We saw elephants and crocodiles and antelopes and baboons and what we called gazelles but are apparently actually called bush bucks in ghana. Because we were walking we could get up super close to them all. Was pretty cool but by the end i just wanted breakfast.

So we went back and had eggs, toast and coffee. Super happy fun times for me and my fellow coffee addicts.

We then went to go an organise sleeping in the park in a tree house for the night. Susan wouldn't be able to do it since she had a bus to catch early Wednesday morning so it was going to be just bracha n i. Sadly though, when it was time to go bracha was feeling very tired and woozy and so we had to cancel it. Within an hour she felt better but it was too late by then. I was very disappointed but when you travel with people you are with them for the good bits and the bad bits. So instead we moved rooms again (the 3rd one of the day...long and boring story why) and went to the pool and ended up chilling with a Dutchman who's travelling his way all across west africa.

As for today, i plan on lying by the pool overlooking the watering hole below where many animals come to drink or to hunt. Maybe i'll go for another walking safari this afternoon. Tomorrow morning at 4.am brach n i need to catch a bus to tamale to begin our million hour journey to accra so we can go to this adorable beach town for the weekend.

So i guess that'll be all for now.

Cheers